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- Hardness and Softness of
- Cationic Materials
- April, 2005
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- The isoelectric point of untreated hair is 3.7.
- Using the Henderson Hasselbasch equation, it is clear that when the pH
is below this 3.7 the hair is cationic, and when the pH is above 3.7,
the hair is anionic
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- Hair in its normal state has certain oils, sebum and other components
present on it’s the surface. When a detergent is used on the hair, these
materials can be removed, leaving the hair stripped of its natural
conditioning oils.
- Stripped hair is generally dry, raspy, dull and has problems with static
electricity which results in a condition called, “fly away”. The ability
to treat the hair to remove these undesirable properties is the most
basic aspect of conditioning. There are several others.
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- Fatty and Silicone quats can be applied to overcome these undesirable
attributes.
- However:
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- The use of quats in hair care products can be problematic, since many of
these materials are not compatible with anionic materials. This
incompatibility can be manifested as a precipitate, or as cloudiness in
formulation.
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- One aspect of conditioning is wet comb, which is the ability to
effortlessly comb the hair in a wet state. Wet comb relates to wetting
of the hair with a surfactant to make combing easier.
- Another aspect of conditioning relates to providing the hair with a
treatment that the consumer perceives as soft and conditioned many hours
after the hair has been treated.
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- Materials which function in wet
comb are not necessarily the same as those that function as dry comb
agents.
- The agents that best alter the feel of hair after drying are polymers
and most commonly high molecular weight insoluble silicones.
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- The advent of two in one systems that provide this type of advanced
conditioning as been made possible by inclusion of polymers, often
silicone polymers into hair care products.
- In recent years this type of conditioning has been achieved by inclusion
of silicone fluids, oil soluble esters and making complexes of anionic
and cationic surfactants that contain silicone.
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- Some quats are very insoluble when added to anionic surfactant, others
have improved compatibility.
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- The ability to select quats that have optimum compatibility with anionic
systems and minimal effect upon other attributes like foam, offer the
formulator flexibility in formulating heretofore unavailable.
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- The nature of the anionic / cationic interaction is key to predicting
functionality, or lack of functionality of conditioners
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14
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- R1 1. Alkyl (C12)
-
Ricinoleylamidopropyl
-
Dilinoleylamidopropyl
- Cocamidopropyl
- R2 1. Methyl -CH3
- 2. 2-hydroxy ethyl - CH2CH2OH
- R3 1. Methyl -CH3
- 2. Benzyl -CH2-C6H5
- 3. Glyceryl -CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-OH
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- Prepare a 10% active solution of SLS and SLES-3
- Prepare a 10% active solution of Quat to be tested.
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- Titrate 10% solution of quat into 100 grams of 10% solution of anionic.
- End point is cloudiness or precipitate.
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- All quat compounds reached a cloud point when titrated into
anionic. However the amount
necessary to reach the haze point was different and the nature of the
end point was different.
- The so-called hard quats have very little tolerance for anionic, forming
insoluble precipitates with very little addition.
- Quaternary compounds having intermediate hardness show compatibility
with anionic surfactants at near
stoichiometric amounts, but do eventually haze.
- Soft quats do not exhibit a haze,
but rather show a clear gel.
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- TREATMENT SOLUTIONS
- 0.5% Active Quat.
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- All quat solutions, with the exception of three, (AEG, AMG, CaMG)
exhibited cationic sub stantivity when delivered to hair tresses in a
0.5% aqueous solution.
- It is likely that these quat solutions did not exhibit substantivity
because of their increased water solubility.
- Quat DMG, containing a glyceryl group, did exhibit cationic
substantivity.
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- No substantivity was observed when quat solutions were delivered from a
10% active, anionic solution of surfactant.
- (SLS and SLES). The test measures
cationic deposition as opposed to deposition of a compound of any
nature.
- Since the quat and anionic form a complex, the deposited material is not
cationic and consequently does not provide a color when tested with the
dye test.
- More representative of the deposition is combing force.
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- Quaternium compounds can be classified as hard or soft by their ability
to form gelled systems with anionic systems.
- Cationic systems that form a gel at near stoichiometric amounts are
classified as “soft”, those that form precipitates of haze without
appreciable viscosity build up are classified as “hard” quats.
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- “Soft quats” can produce foam in the systems they gel, albeit at levels
below the volume of foam generated by the anionic, per se.
- This gellation is interesting since in some instances, it does not
adversely affect foam. This means that the selection of the proper quat
may allow for alkanolamid replacement.
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- Quaternium compounds titrated with sodium laureth-3-sulfate (SLES)
produced greater viscosities with amido quats.
- The exception were amido quats
containing a benzyl group, which exhibited a low viscosity in SLES.
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- Compounds that contained a benzyl group, or were a alkyl rather
than amido, (i.e. AMB, AME, AMG,
AMM, AEB, AEG), precipitated at lower levels of titration and are
consequently classified as “hard quats”.
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- Overall, all quat/anionic solutions tested had less foam than when the
anionic itself was tested. This
was true for both SLS and SLES.
- With the exception of quats AEG, AMG, and CaMG, and the negative
control, all 0.5% active, aqueous solutions of quaternium compounds
produced positive results for cationic substantivity, when evaluated per
se.
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- In aqueous solutions of anionic surfactants, all quat solutions,
including the positive control (polyquaternium 10), produced negative
results.
- This is thought to be due to the fact that there is no net positive
charge of the hair, due to the fact that the anionic and cationic in
combination have a new zero charge.
- This is not to be confused with no deposition.
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- Instrumental dry combing analysis of human hair tresses treated with
aqueous quat solutions confirmed conditioning, showing that quat MMM
indeed performed the best, followed closely by MMG, polyquaternium 10,
and the negative control.
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- Quat MMM concluded to be the best performer, yielding a thick,
translucent gel with a viscosity well over 10,000 cps for both SLS and
SLES titrations.
- MMM/Anionic Solutions produced an above average foam height without
suppression and extended foam stability well over 24 hours or, ten times
greater than SLS and SLES, controls, and positive controls
(polyquaternium 10 and SLS/SLES).
- MMM performed equally as well in substantivity tests when delivered from
an aqueous system.
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